TYPES OF DRUMS & ROTORS

 

Hubbed

 

Hubless-Vented

 

Solid

 

Composite

 

 

 Vented       – Some are directional

 

             Composite  -  Must be machined with adapter

                                - Strong when bolted against wheel

                                - Outside – cast iron

                                - Inside – stamped steel help fuel economy

 

Coefficient of Friction = measurement of friction between 2 surfaces

 

Weight transfer = shorter the car, the more rate transfer we have

·        During a panic stop, considered 1 g = about as fast as you can decelerate

·        Majority at brake is at front “Brake Biased”

 

Rotor mic vs. regular mic differences                             slip-clutch

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

·        Pointed anvil to get into grooves      (keep uniform measurements)

·        Starts as .300” and goes to 1.300”

·        Conventional thimble has 25 marks, every revolution is .025”

·        Never store micrometer all the way closed

·        Operated off a bolt and nut principle

 

 

DIAL INDICATOR

 

·        Always be straight on to what you want to measure or perpendicular

·        Preload dial indicator

 

SIU Specs for rotor run out:  .005”     [rotor run out]

·        Parallelism (thickness variation) = .0005”

·        Rotor Taper                                 = .002”

 

 

Rotor runout:

·        If hubless, reinstall lugnuts

·        If tapered bearing (hubbed)  - overtighten to compensate for lash

·          When done, readjust

·        Anymore run out than .005 gives you a pulsating pedal

·        Loose wheel bearings on disc brakes cause a low brake pedal

         Looser it is, the lower the pedal

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Rotor Taper – measure at points A & B with micrometer                                              

 

Parallelism – measure in six spots around the rotor

 

T.I.R. – Total Indicated Reading

·        There could be a problem with the hub

 

 

 

We will hand torque all lug nuts

·        80-85 minimum – rule of thumb

·        Aluminum wheels need tighter torque

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

MEASUREMENTS

 

Dial Indicator – standard mic

·        Careful when releasing pressure

·        On drums, in, first – out, last

·        Base setting – whatever inch drum you have 11, 10, 9

·        And then add dial indicator reading

·        Move out 1/8 of an inch at a time                      1/8” = .125”

·        Looking for highest reading on dial indicator

 

·        If you have a metric drum – convert 25.4 mm = 1 inch

·        What if too large of drum?   Gets bigger during use

·        Gets too thin – won’t dissipate heat – warp/crack

·        The bigger the diameter, the more leverage

·        More braking for initial stop

 

·        QUESTION:  What does maximum diameter found on the drum mean?

1.      The Maximum diameter that can be machined to and still be put back into service. 

2.      The Discard or throw away diameter which cannot be put into service. 

                       

 

·        10” drum – 10.060 max. Diameter, 10.090 discard

                       

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

·        Drum “mic “ calibration = at 0” dial indicator

(The lowest reading of the dial indicator should be “0”)

 

Drum Machining:

Scratch test – make 2 marks, If marks are at the

same location (side by side), the mounting is correct.  If the

marks change when remounted, a mounting problem exists.

 

               

WHEEL BEARINGS

 

2-styles – seal,  tapered.  Tapered – adjustable

 

·        Tapered – adjustable

·        Has an outer race/cup and an inner cone (free to rotate)

·        Need to be replaced as a unit

 

·        To test

·        Roll it to see if there is any roughness

·        Test drive, lightly veer from left to right, if the noise increases, tapered bearings will get louder when you load them up

 

·        Sealed

·        A sealed bearing will get quieter when you lead them up

·        Jack up back end ( or one wheel if open differential)

·        Run it, do you hear noise?

 

·        Tapered – left, spin wheel, hard on bumper – can feel growling

 

If you turn to the left, you are loading the right.

 

Tapered:  outer – smaller,   inner -  

 

  1.  Take dust cap off – remover, channel lock, chisel, do not damage or crease.

  2.  Remove cotter key

  3.  Remove nut – set on towel or paper

  4.  Washer

  5.  Inspect roller – get rid of grease

·        must get rid of all solvent because it breaks down the new grease  packed it

·        do not dry with air so it spins fast!

 

Repack – use proper grease by hand, forced all through bearing.

 

Inner bearing: 

·        Must remove outer cover to get to it

·        Wipe with clean towel – are there metal shavings

·        If not, just repack, as it will push old out

·        Do not mix, race and bearing area matched set

·        Tighten bolt – follow directions, lighten to     and then back off 1/2 a flat

·        Tighten down – back off, then hand tighten with wrench

 

 

 

Cotter key – must not rub on dust cover!

 

 

 

~*~HOME~*~